The den of iniquity

I stupidly chose to stay in a hotel on Bourbon Street for my stint in New Orleans.  The only advantage is that I haven’t needed to bother about its street address – I just follow the noise and drunken people to the hotel.  Despite the sleaziness and tackiness of Bourbon Street specifically and, to a lesser extent, the French Quarter, the food to date has largely been magnificent.

SP and I arrived last night and headed to Muriel’s for dinner.  Turtle soup for starters.  I’ve wanted to try this for ages since seeing Babette’s Feast.  Yes it was real turtle but the turtle would have been farmed not wild.  SP commented that it was more like swamp soup which was a fair description.  The flavours were complex and interesting but a bit too strong for my liking.  Also the texture was a bit off putting – rather slimy.

Turtle soup

Next up was barbecued shrimp.  The creamy worcestershire sauce reduction was divine and the prawns were delicious.

Barbecue shrimp

Finally the best bread and butter pudding I’ve ever eaten.  Just the right consistency and topped off with a toffee crust, caramelised pecans and a brandy sauce.  The perfect blend of fine dining and comfort food.

Bread and butter pudding

On the way home we walked past Cafe du Monde and I couldn’t resist the chance to try their cafe au lait and beignets.  I wasn’t expecting much from the coffee but the beignets themselves were a bit of a disappointment.  They’d been overcooked and sucked in too much grease.  Not good now matter how much icing sugar they’re smothered in.

Cafe au lait and beignets

Today we were in a rush to catch a morning city tour and were lucky enough to chance upon Johnny’s Po-Boys on our way.  I ordered the BLT po-boy and SP had the shrimp po-boy.   Mine was delicious and quickly devoured on the back of the bus.  The shrimp po-boy was also good – although the shrimp were battered and fried so it was a bit on the greasy side for breakfast.

BLT po-boy

We had enough time between tours (after the city tour we’d booked tickets for a Mississipi steamship ride) to lunch at Mother’s.  I had the crawfish etouffee.  The etoufee bit was great but I’m not sure about crawfish.  I hadn’t eaten these before and expected them to be like prawns and / or crayfish.  In reality they had a much stronger flavour and were  more crumbly in texture.

Crawfish etoufee

Whilst on the steamboat SP and I shared an Evans creole pecan log, filled with vanilla nougat.  Delicious.

Evans creole pecan log

Before dinner we had a Pimm’s cup from Napoleon House.  Refreshing as promised by the bartender but boy what a hit.  I’m steering well clear of the Hurricane.

We had dinner at Tujagues.  No a la carte menu here.  Everyone gets a six course dinner and your only choice is your main.  This was fine with me.  Sometimes choice is overrated.  First up was the shrimp remoulade.  SP noted that this is essentially a variation on the shrimp cocktail.  The sauce was spicy with a bit of a hit.  Delicious with the cold prawns and lettuce.

Shrimp remoulade

The crab and corn bisque was a real disappointment because despite all of its wonderful flavours and perfect texture, it was too salty for both my and SP’s palates.

Crab and corn bisque

The beef brisket was melt in your mouth tender and accompanied by a fiery but delightful horseradish-based creole sauce.

Beef brisket and creole sauce

 

Instead of the stated options for our main SP and I requested the chicken bonne femme, a secret dish that you have to know about to request (thankfully a review outlining this “secret” was stuck to the wall next to our table!).  This was an extraordinary dish.  Four cuts of chicken (leg, wing, thigh and breast) covered in a wonderful blend of spices and pan fried so the skin is thin and crispy, served with tablespoons of chopped raw garlic and parsley and sauteed potatoes.  Magnificent.

Chicken bonne femme

Finally, banana bread and butter pudding with caramel sauce and coffee.  The pudding was fine – incomparable to our pudding from Muriel’s last night though so a bit of a disappointing way to end the meal and the day.

Banana bread and butter pudding with caramel sauce

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